its hard being a coast-a-holic...

but someone's gotta do it....

Living in Brisbane, about 45min drive from some of the most playful sand bottom point breaks in the world...yet I surf about once a fortnight...if that. School takes priority, and deadlines seem to have an excellent correlation with good swells!!!! Hmmm..in essence I get to surf when its pumping, but I miss those fun little, 'just to get wet' sessions or those perfect little small days with two guys out....

What I'm thankful for though, is the new appreciation I have developed for good swells,,...an excellent renewable, environmentally sustainable fun source....!!!! damn yeah... I come to the coast for new swells with a smile greater than a split watermelon, great for the stoke factor and my reputation in the lineup...

Maybe patience is a virtue...like now, waiting for a groundswell to arrive 4 days from now...and trying in vain to concentrate on schoolwork.

I have developed a model that conceptually illustrates the aforementioned notion of anticipation...


Anticipation + time waited + stoke coefficient + weather coefficients = >appreciation + further coastal addictions.....then begins the feedback cycle!!

hopefully it will be as fun as this...see below